Place the chicken in a bowl with the Shaoxing wine, light soy sauce and white pepper. Mix well and let it marinate for 20 minutes while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

Stir-frying moves quickly, so place the fermented black beans, fresh chilies, ginger, garlic, duo jiao, scallion whites, scallion greens, stock and sugar beside the stove before heating the wok.

Heat a wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates almost immediately. Add the 3 tablespoons of oil and swirl it around the cooking surface.

Add the chicken in a single layer. Let it cook without moving for approximately 2-3 minutes so the first side can brown, then stir-fry until the pieces are well colored but not necessarily cooked completely through. Work in two batches if needed rather than crowding the wok. Transfer the browned chicken to a plate.

Return the wok to medium-high heat and add the ginger and cook for approximately 15 seconds. Add the garlic, fermented black beans and fresh Prik Noi chilies and stir-fry for another 20 to 30 seconds, just until fragrant. Keep everything moving so the garlic and black beans don’t scorch.

Add the duo jiao and stir-fry for approximately 1 minute. Frying the fermented chilies in the oil wakes up their aroma and helps carry their flavor throughout the dish.

Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the wok. Add the scallion whites, chicken stock and sugar. Toss everything together over high heat until the chicken is completely cooked and the liquid has reduced to a glossy coating, approximately 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the scallion greens and toss for another 20 to 30 seconds. Taste before adding anything further. The duo jiao, fermented black beans and soy sauce will usually provide all the salt the dish needs.

Transfer the chicken immediately to a serving dish, or serve it directly from the wok with plenty of steamed rice.